So you got your first artisan keycap. Let's get it on your keyboard. The whole process takes about two minutes.
What You Need
- Your mechanical keyboard
- Your new artisan keycap
- A keycap puller if you have one. We include one with every PureKeycap order. If you don't have a puller, your fingers will work fine.
Step 1: Check Compatibility
Make sure your keyboard uses Cherry MX-style switches. That includes Gateron, Kailh, Akko, Durock, and most other popular switch brands. They all share the same cross-shaped (+) stem.
Two quick ways to check:
- Search your keyboard model + "switch type"
- Pull off any keycap and look at the underside. If the hole is a + shape, you're good.
All PureKeycap artisan keycaps fit Cherry MX cross-stems.
Not sure about your board? Most mainstream mechs from Keychron, Ducky, GMMK, Varmilo, and Leopold all use MX-compatible switches. You're probably fine.
Step 2: Choose Which Key to Replace
Most artisan keycaps are 1U (one standard square key), so they'll fit any 1U position. Popular spots:
- ESC is the classic choice. Top-left corner, always visible.
- Arrow keys work well for directional or themed designs.
- F-row keys if you want something subtler.
- Really, any standard square key works.
Double-check the product listing for size if you're placing it somewhere specific.
Step 3: Remove the Existing Keycap
With a keycap puller:
- Slide the wire loop around the keycap from both sides.
- Pull straight up with gentle, even pressure.
- It'll pop right off.
Without a puller:
- Get your fingernails under opposite edges of the keycap. A flat guitar pick works too.
- Rock it gently, then pull straight up. Don't yank it from one side.
⚠️ Avoid pressing the switch stem down while pulling. It makes removal harder and can bend the stem.
Step 4: Install the Artisan Keycap
- You'll see a small + shaped post sticking up from the switch. That's the stem.
- Line up the matching + shaped hole on the bottom of your artisan keycap.
- Press straight down with even pressure until it clicks into place.
Step 5: Test It
Press the key a few times. You're checking three things:
- Does the keypress register?
- Is there any wobble?
- Does it sit at roughly the same height as the keys around it?
If it wobbles or feels loose, pull it off and reseat it. The stem probably wasn't fully inserted.
Tips & Common Mistakes
Don't force it. If the keycap won't press down easily, stop. Recheck your alignment. Forcing a misaligned cap can crack the socket inside.
Zinc alloy keycaps are heavier than plastic. You'll notice the difference in feel when you type. This is normal, and the switch will still actuate properly. Some people actually prefer the weight. We've seen a lot of customers say the heavier thock sound alone was worth it.
Spinning keycaps are intentional. Some of our designs, like the Vinyl Record keycap, have a component that rotates freely. Install them the same way. The rotation is built into the keycap itself, not the switch.
Photo your layout first. If you're swapping several keycaps at once, snap a picture of your original layout before you start pulling things off. Saves you from trying to remember where your Print Screen key was.
Frequently Asked Questions
Will this void my keyboard warranty?
No. Swapping keycaps is a standard, non-destructive mod. No major keyboard manufacturer considers it a warranty issue.
Can I put an artisan keycap on a laptop?
Nope. Laptops use low-profile scissor switches with a completely different mount. Artisan keycaps only work with MX-style mechanical switches.
What if the keycap is too tall for my case?
This can happen with tall sculpted artisans on low-profile keyboard cases, but it's uncommon. If your case has tight clearance, check the keycap height in the product specs before ordering.
One last thing: if you ever need to remove your artisan keycap, just reverse Step 3. These are designed to be swapped as often as you want. Keep the keycap puller in your desk drawer.